Cultivation

The early stages when growing for exhibition

Mammoth Onions are ideally sown between late December and late February. A 30cm x 30cm tray can hold around 100 seeds. Use John Innes sowing compost to plant the seeds and cover them with the same compost. If using peat free compost ensure the compost is fine. Germination typically takes about two weeks at an overnight temperature of 12°-13°C. Keep the seeds moist but avoid overwatering at this stage, higher germination temperatures can often harm the seeds, leading to poor results.

After germination, when the seedlings reach the ‘crook’ stage, transfer them into stronger compost. Individual pots can be used at this point. Handle the seedlings carefully as they are very delicate and easily damaged. Water only when needed, good ventilation at this stage will help prevent botrytis, which can be harmful. Maintain a temperature of 12-13°C.

Move the young plants from the greenhouse to a cold frame in mid to late March. This helps them harden off properly before being planted outdoors from late April. Planting times will depend on the area and conditions at that time. Exhibition onions will benefit from being covered with cloches during this period.

Growing for the Kitchen

Smaller onions, including red and white varieties, can be grown using a similar method, but they can be sown later until February.

The Onion Bed for exhibition onions

Choose an open site with good drainage. For exhibition onions, trench 50cm deep. Fork up the bottom of each trench if solid. Into every four square yards of the bed work the following:-

• 4 Forkfuls of pea, bean or tomato haulms.
• 1 garden barrow of well rotted farmyard manure
• An alternative to the traditional separate fertilsers added at this time is to use a good general fertiliser. These can be added just prior to planting and work just as well. It is important however to add the manure during the winter months.

First scatter the haulms at the bottom of the trench. Fill the trench with soil and manure in layers until all the soil is returned to the trench. It is essential that the greater proportion of the manure should be near the top of the bed, some within 10cms of the surface, this will enable the roots to come into contact with the manure during the early stages of growth. This work is best done in the late autumn or early winter when reasonably dry. The bed can then be left rough over the winter period.

In March work the top into a fine tilth adding the following to an area of 4sq metres.

• 55gms Superphosphate
• 28gms Hydrated Lime or 500gms Calcified Seaweed (This amount can vary according to soil type and whether the onions are to be grown for exhibition or kitchen, exhibition ground tends to be acidic quicker than general ground, hence the need for Lime or Calcified Seaweed. On ground for general vegetables this need only be done every third year on exhibition ground every year.)
• If no general fertilizer was added during winter just add this at this time.

Planting

Don’t firm the ground unless it’s very light. When conditions are suitable, which depends on several factors, plant out the hardened-off onion plants. The typical planting period is from mid-April to mid-May. Using cloches can be beneficial both before and after planting.

Onions can be grown on the same ground for many years; our own onion bed is now over150 years old and has grown onions continuously for this time. However a strict health routine must be followed if you are using the same ground again and again. If any onions are suspect always remove not only the plant but also a small amount of soil from where the onion was growing. This action should remove any unwanted bacteria in the soil.  

Onions are required for general kitchen use or if it has not been possible to prepare the ground in the autumn we suggest the following. When it is possible, work into the ground one barrowful of farmyard manure to 4sq metres. Prior to planting add a good general fertiliser.. During the growing season never allow the onion bed to become dry, especially during June and July when the onions are growing well.

The planting distance for onions can vary according to the result required. For exhibition we suggest a planting distance of no nearer than 30cm x 30cm, for kitchen use this may be reduced to 20cm x 20cm.

Feeding

Feeding spring planted onions on established beds should not be necessary, on ground, which has been cultivated for a number of years, over feeding can be harmful. If feeding is required it must be done in the early season. Over feeding can result in onions with thick necks and poor keeping qualities. Water on all occasions when onions are dry.

For autumn planted onions give a top dressing of general fertilizer during February.

Harvesting

Onions store better if harvested with some growth left in the plant. For exhibitions, lift the onions 10-14 days before the show to allow the bulb to dry. Trim the roots and tops, leaving enough of the top to tie down for display. Remove any dead or broken skins, and let them dry in a warm, dry area, like a greenhouse. After 7 days, exhibitors can fold the onion tops over for better presentation, using rubber bands which shrink with the onion neck, eliminating the need for re-tying unless the show rules specify otherwise.

For kitchen use, once dry, onions can be stored in a cool, frost-free shed or garage.

This method has been used since William Robinson grew large onions in the early 1900s. It is widely copied because it works, relying on good cultivation and patience rather than any secret technique.

Leeks are grown similarly to onions, using the same compost and greenhouse temperatures. It’s best to wait until the third week of January to sow, as this reduces the risk of them going to seed later in the season. Leeks benefit from being potted again at the third leaf stage, and we recommend planting them outdoors about two weeks after the onions. Providing protection after planting can also be beneficial.

To overwinter leeks, sow seeds from late February to March and transplant them outdoors between June and early August.

The Bed

Trench and manure the same as for onions when growing for exhibition, but use only half the amount of Bone Meal and Sulphate of Potash. For exhibition do not plant in trenches but on the flat no nearer than 30cm X 30cm.

For kitchen use, leeks may be planted from late April to August. The traditional method of dropping the leek plant into a 12cm hole may be used.

Feeding

If feed is needed, use the same as for onions but leeks may be fed until later in the growing season.

Blanching leeks for exhibition

When growing exhibition leeks, blanching methods come down to personal preference. The approach we’ve traditionally used, and which most exhibitors now follow, involves planting the leek on flat ground and letting it grow for several weeks. Once the plant is big enough, place a land tile or a piece of drainpipe over it, leaving 3 to 4 cm of leaf showing at the top. Avoid filling the tile or pipe with peat, as the leek will naturally fill the space as it grows. Since land tiles, originally used for drainage, are harder to find, drainpipes cut to 30 cm in height are a great alternative. For additional blanching, place a larger tile or pipe over the top, lifting the inner one and supporting it at the base with peat. This creates a telescoping effect, allowing the inner tile to be adjusted upwards as needed.

SOWING

The best time to sow celery is governed by the time the celery is required to mature. Sowings made around January 20th should mature at the end of August. Sowings made Mid March are best for autumn and winter use.

Sow seeds using a John Innes sowing compost or Universal peat compost, which has been put through a fine riddle. Water with a fine spray; do not cover the seed. Cover the tray with a sheet of glass or polythene. Germinate at 13-15deg.C, never allowing the compost to become dry. The seeds should germinate approx. two to three weeks from sowing. Transplant the seedlings as soon as large enough to handle. An advantage is gained if potted into individual pots at this stage. The pots should be no smaller than 9cms to allow for growth. We suggest that a temperature of 12deg.C be maintained at this stage. Harden the plants in a cold frame prior to planting out.

Planting times depend on the part of the country and the conditions at that time. Generally we suggest Celery be planted out no earlier than the 2nd week in May. Here again great advantage is gained by providing protection after planting.

The Bed

Prepare for celery as for Leeks. Celery responds to feeding and in particular foliar feeding, although we have found a top dressing well watered in is easier to apply. Make sure the Celery has plenty of water. This is especially important in a hot dry summer when watering cannot be overdone.

Blanching Celery

For Exhibition the Celery is best blanched above ground, this gives the gardener more control over the Celery and it keeps the sticks clean. We have found that bands of brown paper 15cms wide a great success. The paper must be opaque and strong enough to withstand the weather and water of the growing season. Take off any outside decaying leaves and suckers wrap the paper around the Celery and tie with string. This can be followed with further bands every 10/12 days, as the Celery grows taller. Before additional bands are added we suggest the previous bands are removed and any decaying sticks taken out. The bands can then be replaced on the now cleaned Celery. We usually start to blanch the Celery 5/6 weeks after planting outside.

Self Blanching celery is grown the same in the early stages but is planted out from May and will need no blanching. Use as soon as the plant is large enough.

Bean seeds can be sown outdoors in soil that has been well-prepared by digging and adding plenty of well-rotted farmyard manure, ideally done during winter. A general-purpose fertilizer can be applied in March or April when the soil begins to dry and warm. Sowing times vary by region—warm areas can sow in mid-May, while colder areas may need to wait until early June. Growing beans in pots in a greenhouse and planting them out as established plants in June often gives the best results. This method allows sowing as early as April.

For climbing beans, the tripod method works best. Create a wigwam with canes and plant one or two seeds at the base of each. This angled setup helps the beans grow straight. Dwarf beans only need simple support to keep them upright.

During hot, dry weather, water generously in the evening to retain moisture. The most crucial time for watering is when the flower trusses are still green. Regular watering is essential at this stage.

Harvest beans of all types regularly to keep them tender and prevent them from becoming stringy.

The first rule for growing peas is to avoid planting them in the same spot as the previous year; crop rotation is essential. Plant peas in well-manured soil enriched with lime or calcified seaweed. Space seeds 5 cm apart and 4 cm deep in a single row, or start them in pots and transplant once ready to protect them from birds.

Keep the roots moist when flowers begin to form. Peas take about 12 weeks from sowing to maturity and around 3 weeks from flowering to harvest.

Tall varieties, like Show Perfection, can grow up to five feet and need supports slightly taller than that. Plastic netting works well and can be reused with care. Dwarf varieties, which grow up to 1 meter, can be supported with pea sticks or shorter netting.

Always pick peas regularly to ensure the sweet flavour.

Planting

It is important to choose a site with good soil conditions and drainage. An Asparagus bed can last up to 15years, so a deep rich soil is preferable.

On well-prepared ground plant the Asparagus 30-40cms apart and 60cms between rows. Plant the crowns as soon as possible. Do not allow the crowns to dry out prior to planting. 2 or 3 year old crowns are the best if available.

To plant, open a trench 4cm deep and spread the crowns evenly in the bottom taking care not to damage the buds. Cover with loose soil, so that the ground remains flat. Keep the bed clean by regular hoeing; do not allow the weeds to smother the crop.

Harvesting

Spears may be cut the year after planting. During the first harvest, cropping should stop at the end of May, but after this, cropping may continue till the end of June.

Aftercare

After cropping allow the asparagus to fern. Apply a light dressing of nitrogenous fertiliser to develop strong growth. Allow the fern to die off naturally and remove when brittle after the first frosts. During February clean away any dead fern and clean the bed, avoiding deep cultivation which may damage the crowns. A dressing of general fertilizer may be given at this time.

Cabbage

Choose a good open site; work into the ground compost or farmyard manure in the autumn plus a dressing of Lime or Calcified Seaweed. Robinson Champion Giant Cabbage can be sown in the autumn or spring; summer cabbage can be sown from March onwards. Sow the seeds using good quality compost. At a temperature of 12deg.C germination should take 7/8 days. When the seedlings are 5cm high pot on into single pots. Harden off prior to planting outdoors.

Apply a dressing of a good general fertilizer. Giant Cabbage are planted not less than 100cms apart. The usual sized cabbage can be planted at a distance of 60cms. The Giant Cabbage will benefit from a high Nitrogen dressing during the growing season.

Brussels Sprouts

Ground preparation is as for Cabbage. Sprouts can be sown from March to May. Allow 90cms between plants.

The traditional time for planting Brussels sprouts is after the early potatoes have been lifted from June onwards. When planting at this time of year ensure a good water supply to establish the plants.

Cauliflower

Choose a good open site; dig into the area well-rotted farmyard manure plus a dressing of Calcified Seaweed. Prior to planting a general fertiliser should be applied. The seeds are sown using the same method as cabbage. Cauliflowers do not like a check in growth at any stage, so care should be taken with the young plants. Harden off in a cold frame prior to planting outdoors. Plant at a distance of 60cms.

Kale

Choose a good open site, work into the ground compost or farmyard manure in the autumn plus a dressing of Lime or Calcified Seaweed. The kale can be sown in the early spring for summer and autumn use; for winter use can be sown from March onwards. Sow the seeds using good quality compost. At a temperature of 12deg.C germination should take 7/8 days. When the seedlings are 5cm high pot on into single pots. Harden off prior to planting outdoors.

Apply a dressing of a good general fertilizer prior to planting and plant 30-35cms apart. Kale can also be grown in containers. Use a loam based compost such as John Innes No.2. This will add weight to the pot and retain more moisture. Feed using a tomato type feed and water during the dry summer months. Harvest as needed.

Plant garlic between October and February, ideally early, in well-drained soil. Light soils produce brighter, whiter bulbs, while heavier soils yield good garlic but may stain the outer skin.

Separate bulbs into cloves carefully without damaging them. Each bulb typically yields 10-15 cloves. Plant in fertile, cultivated soil, spacing rows about 50cm apart. Insert each clove base-first into the soil so the pointed end is 2-3cm below the surface, with 15cm between cloves. Apply sulphate of potash during growth (2oz per square meter) for best results.

Harvest garlic in July/August when the tops start to fall. Handle gently to avoid bruising the tender bulbs. Dry indoors, ensuring the outer skin remains firm, plump, and tight.

For elephant garlic, follow the same method but space cloves 25cm apart. Remove seed stalks at least three weeks before harvest to prevent seeding.

Wild garlic, or Bear Garlic (Allium ursinum), grows in late winter, flowers in spring, and dies down by mid-summer, allowing other plants to grow. Plant bulbs 8cm deep in clumps of 5-10. When clumps become dense, lift and separate after flowering while still in leaf. Flowering occurs from March to May. Store bulbs in a cool, dry place until planting, and plant as soon as possible. Wild garlic will self-seed and spread naturally.

Sowing

All these plants require a germination temperature of 15°C. Sow them in pots and harden them off before planting outdoors.

Planting

Pumpkins should be planted 2m apart, while courgettes, marrows, and squashes can be spaced slightly closer, at a minimum of 1m.

For larger pumpkins, use more manure and space them 3m apart. Limit each plant to one or two fruits, removing extras once the desired number has set. Train side shoots along the ground, allowing them to root undisturbed. Water thoroughly when the soil is dry.

For squashes check whether they are bush or trailing types to determine proper spacing. Smaller varieties like Little Gem can be trained to grow vertically.

Harvesting

For marrows and squashes, let all fruits mature. Leave storage-bound fruits on the plant to ripen fully, allowing their skin to harden. Store them in a well-ventilated, frost-free area. Some squash varieties can last for months in storage.

Harvest courgettes regularly to encourage continuous fruiting. Once fruiting starts, an additional feed can help the plants thrive.

Pumpkins need to be mature to store properly. If need for a specific date they can be cut but if the skin is soft the fruit will not store well.

Sowing

The key to successfully growing tomatoes starts with maintaining strict hygiene, from the compost to the entire greenhouse area.

For a heated greenhouse, sow seeds in early January, and for a cold greenhouse, start sowing from mid-March. Use high-quality sowing compost and keep the temperature around 12-13°C. Sow seeds thinly, covering them with about 5mm of finely sieved compost. Water gently with a fine spray but not a mist, and ensure the compost stays moist during germination. Once the seedlings are big enough to handle, transfer them into individual pots with good potting compost. Avoid overcrowding, as it leads to weak, pale plants that don’t thrive. Always ventilate the greenhouse when possible, and prevent damping off by not overwatering.

The next stage

There are several ways to grow tomatoes. Grow Bags are a simple option, but watering needs to be managed carefully to prevent Blossom End Rot. Ring Culture is another popular method, especially in a greenhouse with a solid floor. However, the most effective method we’ve found is planting in the greenhouse border. Start by sterilising the soil or bringing in fresh maiden loam, then mix in one barrow of farmyard manure per 5 square meters, working it into the top 25 cm of soil. A few days before planting, lightly fork in a general fertilizer, which your local garden shop can recommend. Plant tomatoes at a spacing of 45 cm by 60 cm, but avoid planting in a cold greenhouse before the third week of April. Always support the plants and spray water at midday when flowers open to help fruit set. Begin feeding once the first fruit sets, starting with a high Potash feed and switching to a high Nitrogen feed later in the season. Ensure good ventilation throughout to maintain a healthy atmosphere.

The beefsteak type of Tomato will need extra feeding to produce the larger fruit. Most types are grown using a similar method, which is supporting the main stem and taking off all side shoots. However increasingly popular are the cherry types, these can be grown using the same method or can be allowed to grow two side shoots to maturity as well as the centre stem.

The self stopping bush varieties need just a support with all growth left on. These are often grown outdoors as they are very easy to support.

Sowing

For the best results, sow seeds between late January and the end of May to take advantage of good light conditions. The plants will reach their peak cropping during the summer months. Use trays filled with quality sowing compost, covering the seeds with no more than 1cm of sieved compost. Water gently with a fine spray, then cover the tray with glass or polythene. Avoid watering again until germination occurs, as overwatering can hinder germination. Keep the temperature at 13-14°C for germination. Once seedlings appear, remove the covering to allow full light. Transplant the seedlings into 9cm pots when they are large enough to handle, ensuring the temperature stays above 12°C during this stage.

The Bed

For good cucumber growth in a glasshouse, use a slightly raised bed with sterilized or fresh loam, as cucumbers won’t thrive in previously used soil. Mix the soil with plenty of farmyard manure and a balanced general fertilizer. Plant cucumbers no less than 60 cm apart. You can also grow them in grow-bags, but limit it to two plants per bag. Train the plants upward using strings or nets, and remove excess growth if growing for exhibition purposes.

The King George variety is open-pollinated, so all male flowers must be removed to prevent the fruit from spoiling. Pollinated cucumbers become bitter and inedible. Male flowers have a stalk behind them, while female flowers have a small, immature fruit at the base.

Feeding

For Cucumber growing in the open greenhouse border use a good general liquid feed at the recommended rate. When grown in a grow-bag feed once a week at the same rate. Cucumbers will benefit from mulch of peat-based compost around the stem and over the surrounding roots; they will very quickly make more roots out of the stem, giving the plant an extra boost. Do not overwater as this will cause the stems to rot at the base.

Harvesting.

Pick the fruit as soon as it is ready. Leaving the fruit to ripen on the plant will stop it from producing more fruit, and the older fruit will become bitter.

Making a start on a raised bed.

If growing for exhibition these are best grown in a raised bed, it is impossible to obtain either the length or quality required for exhibition on flat earth.

Dig over the area to be used in the Autumn or Winter months to a depth of 30cms at the same time adding peat or leaf mould at the rate of one barrowful to 4-6sq metres according to the type of soil. Use the heavier dressing on heavy or clay soil. Having prepared the area at ground level the object now is to raise the bed 60-90cms above this level. To keep the bed within its limits it will be necessary to erect some support for the soil; this then makes the perimeter and sides of the raised bed. The medium for this part of the bed is made up of five parts soil, one part course sand and one part leaf mould. To each barrowful of this mixture add 170gms Superphosphate and 140gms Sulphate of Potash. Leave the bed to over winter. During February 110gms of Calcified Seaweed and 28gms of a general fertilizer per sq meter. Yard should be forked in. Make bore holes approximately 90cms deep and 8cms wide. Allow a spacing of 30cms between holes. These holes are then filled with the prepared compost. Old potting compost, which has been stored dry, is ideal; this enables the compost to run freely down the holes. Ideally this should be put through a riddle to remove stones etc which may stop or spoil the growth of the taproot.

Prior to sowing we suggest the seed is soaked and allowed to ‘chit’, this gives a quick germination. Make sure the soil is moist. Sow 3 or 4 seeds per position and approximately 2cms deep. When the seedlings are 4cms high select the strongest from each position and with great care remove the weaker ones.

Never allow the bed to become dry. In a hot dry summer the raised bed will dry very quickly.

For the kitchen

For kitchen growing, sow on ground which has has very little manure added. If there is too much manure they will not grow roots, but only the leaves, nitrogen mainly feed green. To avoid carrot fly sow carrots thinly, this will avoid thinning the carrots and releasing the scent.

Growing beetroot made easy

Choose a sunny position. During the autumn or winter months dig in a small amount of well rotted farmyard manure or garden compost. Two weeks prior to sowing rake in a general fertiliser. Sow from Mid March onwards in rows 30cms apart and 1cm deep. We recommend a spacing of 6cms in the row. Beetroot can be sown in trays or modules and transplanted as soon as the seedlings are large enough, taking care not to damage the roots.

Harvest when needed. Beetroot can be lifted and stored dry and frost free for winter use.

Sowing and growing

For Stump Rooted Carrots it is important to choose a site which was manured the previous year, carrots do not like ground which is too rich in nutrients.

Fork over to a depth of 30cms and add a good general fertiliser. Sow thinly; an ideal spacing is 3cms in the row, this will avoid having to thin the carrots later.

Avoid disturbing the carrots during growth to help prevent any problems with carrot fly.

Sowing and growing

These can be grown on ground which has had manure the previous year and none in the growing year. Too much feed in these crops will encourage a lot of green top growth to the detriment of the root.

Sow little and often for all the radish varieties to ensure a continuous supply. For winter salads radish can be sown in containers in a cold greenhouse.

Sowing and growing

Prepare the ground by adding a general fertilizer. Plant or sow lettuce in succession, never too many at once.

Many varieties are grown for the leaves as a cut and come again salad, they will never make a heart. These varieties grow very easily in containers. Use a mix of 50/50 peat free and John Innes No.2 compost. Water the containers when needed.

Harvest hearted varieties as soon as they are ready.

Winter varieties can be easily grown in cold greenhouse or cold frame from September to March.

Jerusalem

Jerusalem Artichokes are not at all fussy about the condition of the ground providing it is not very acid or water logged during the winter months. Indeed it can be a useful plant to break up heavy land. Dig over the soil during the autumn or winter and add garden compost or manure as necessary. Plant out during early spring 15cms deep and 40cms apart. Allow 90cms between rows. Earth up when the stems are about 30cms high. During the summer months remove any flower buds as they form and feed occasionally with a liquid feed. Cut down stems to 30cms and lift tubers as required between October and early spring, cover the stem bases with straw or soil in severe weather.

Globe

As this vegetable requires a permanent plot, choice of site is important, they are often quite at home in the herbaceous border. For Globe Artichokes again good drainage is essential. During the autumn and winter incorporate garden compost or well rotted manure. Plant during spring and water well during dry weather. Feed with a liquid fertiliser after the first fruit have been cut off. The plant will grow to 4 feet tall during the summer months. In late autumn cut down the stems and cover the crowns to protect from severe weather. Remove protective covering in March.

These can be grown on ground which has had manure the previous year and none in the growing year. Too much feed in these crops will encourage a lot of green top growth to the detriment of the root.

Sow little and often for all the radish varieties to ensure a continuous supply.

Prepare the ground by adding a general fertilizer. Plant or sow lettuce in succession, never too many at once. Many varieties are grown for the leaves; they will never make a heart. These varieties grow very easily in containers. Use a mix of 50/50 multi-purpose and John Innes No.2 compost. Water the containers when needed.

Jerusalem

Jerusalem Artichokes are not at all fussy about the condition of the ground providing it is not very acid or water logged during the winter months. Indeed it can be a useful plant to break up heavy land. Dig over the soil during the autumn or winter and add garden compost or manure as necessary. Plant out during early spring 15cms deep and 40cms apart. Allow 90cms between rows. Earth up when the stems are about 30cms high. During the summer months remove any flower buds as they form and feed occasionally with a liquid feed. Cut down stems to 30cms and lift tubers as required between October and early spring, cover the stem bases with straw or soil in severe weather.

Globe

As this vegetable requires a permanent plot, choice of site is important, they are often quite at home in the herbaceous border. For Globe Artichokes again good drainage is essential. During the autumn and winter incorporate garden compost or well rotted manure. Plant during spring and water well during dry weather. Feed with a liquid fertiliser after the first fruit have been cut off. The plant will grow to 4 feet tall during the summer months. In late autumn cut down the stems and cover the crowns to protect from severe weather. Remove protective covering in March.

To prepare potato tubers for planting, place them in a frost-free area with plenty of light to encourage shoot formation.

Prepare the ground by digging and adding manure in the autumn, and start preparing the bed from February when conditions allow. Apply half the fertilizer on the soil’s surface and the other half at the bottom of the planting trench. Plant potatoes 6-7 cm deep and 30 cm apart in rows spaced 60 cm apart. Dig a trench to the required depth, add fertilizer to the bottom, cover it with a thin layer of soil, and place the tubers sprout-side up before refilling the trench to cover them.

When the haulms reach about 20 cm high, begin earthing up to protect the crop from light.

First Earlies, planted between February and April, are harvested between May and July. They are small, tasty, and ready 9-14 weeks after planting. Second Earlies, planted between March and April, are harvested between July and August, yielding bigger potatoes in 14-17 weeks. Maincrops, planted between March and May, are harvested between August and September, producing large potatoes ready in 17-20 weeks and suitable for winter storage.

For Christmas or winter cropping, plant potatoes in containers to avoid pests. Protect them from frost by moving them indoors or growing them under cover. Outdoor planting should be done in June or July to ensure they mature before frost.

Making a start

There are now two ways to grow this increasingly popular vegetable. The traditional method uses sets, which are typically planted on the shortest day and harvested on the longest day—a time-tested approach. If the ground is too wet pot in small pots or modules and plant as soon the conditions allow.

However, growing shallots from seed is becoming more popular. This method follows the same process as growing onions from seed. The easiest way is to sow seeds in trays indoors in January and plant them out in early spring. Shallots grown from seed tend to be larger than those grown from sets.

Ground preparation is the same for both methods. The soil shouldn’t be too rich, as this will lead to soft growth and poor storage quality. Use soil with a light layer of manure, apply a general fertilizer, and work it well into the ground. Harvest when the tops start turning yellow or flop over, cut the tops off immediately, and dry them indoors.

Banana shallots, planted in early autumn, mature by late spring or early summer but require the same ground preparation as spring-planted shallots.

Hative De Niort is a delicate exhibition shallot that requires careful handling. They are placed in pots starting in November before being planted outdoors in February. When harvested, typically from late June, ensure the bulbs are thoroughly dried to allow the crop to store well until it’s time for replanting.

Sowing and growing

To grow sweet summer peppers successfully, it’s best to cultivate them in a greenhouse. Sow from January to ensure a good harvest by mid summer.

Similar to tomatoes, maintaining greenhouse hygiene is crucial—always use new compost and clean pots.

Seeds should be sown as early as January or February in a heated greenhouse, as peppers develop more slowly than tomatoes. Be cautious not to overwater at this stage, as young plants are vulnerable to botrytis. Once large enough, transplant them into 9cm pots and later into their final growing position when ready. Most varieties thrive in 20cm pots and may need support with canes.

Feed the plants weekly once the first fruit has set.

Sweet peppers take longer to ripen than tomatoes, so if coloured fruit is desired, be prepared to wait until it ripens on the plant. Remove ripe fruit promptly to encourage the development of later fruits.

Sowing and growing

Start sowing seeds in January or February in a heated greenhouse as chilli plants grow more slowly than tomatoes. Be careful not to overwater during this stage, as young plants are susceptible to botrytis.

Once they’re big enough to handle, pot them into 9cm pots, and later move them to their final growing spot. Most varieties thrive in 20cm pots with gritty compost, such as John Innes type. Use canes to support the plants as needed. Keep in a warm place, only putting outdoors in a good hot summer.

Since chilli peppers are perennials, keep them warm through the winter for an early crop the following year. Prune and feed the mature plants in February to encourage new growth.

Sowing and Growing

These are grown similarly to sweet peppers, with sowing starting in January or February.

However the plants can grow taller than sweet peppers, so make sure the supports can accommodate their height.

Be cautious when watering aubergines; avoid letting the fruit remain damp, as this can cause Botrytis. Always ventilate the greenhouse whenever possible.

Once the fruit has set, feed the plants weekly. Check regularly for insect pests such as whitefly, using the yellow fly traps to keep the plants clean.

Rhubarb, one of the oldest cultivated plants, dates back to China around 3000 B.C.

Planting

Plant the crown or root in autumn or spring, spacing them about 1 meter (3 feet) apart. This prevents overcrowding and allows the plant to develop a strong root system.

Soil

Rhubarb thrives in well-drained soil rich in organic matter and can grow well in acidic conditions. Before planting, mix plenty of rotted manure or compost into the soil to enhance its nutrients. Dig a hole slightly larger than the crown or plant, ensuring the top of the crown sits just above the soil surface.

Care

During the first year after planting, avoid picking the stalks as it can weaken the plant and impact future crops. The young plant needs time to establish a strong, healthy crown. If seed stalks appear, cut them off to redirect the plant’s energy toward producing edible stalks rather than seeds. These stalks and leaves can be safely composted at home.

For established plants, applying composted manure or leaves in autumn or early winter is beneficial. Be careful not to cover the crowns to prevent rotting; one or two shovelfuls should be enough.

Rhubarb is generally resistant to pests and diseases, but rot can be an issue. To avoid this, plant in well-drained soil and keep compost from covering the crowns. If rot develops, cut away the affected root and replant the healthy part to save the plant.

Propagating

Every four to five years, dig up the crown to trim it down to four or five buds or divide it to create new plants. Choose pieces with visible buds for better success. This process should be done between November and March when the plant is dormant. From one well-grown crown, you can potentially propagate up to six new plants, though not all may thrive.

Tips for growing Forced Rhubarb at home

Home gardeners can replicate the conditions for forced rhubarb using purpose-made terracotta forcers or an upturned dustbin as a cheaper alternative. The key is to block out light and encourage early growth. However, forcing depletes the plant, so rest the crown for two or three years afterward, allowing it to grow naturally. Some gardeners choose to discard the crowns they have forced. Planting three crowns is recommended.

What are sweet potatoes?

Despite its name, the sweet potato isn’t actually a potato! This delicious root vegetable belongs to the Ipomoea family, the same genus as the well-known flowering climber ‘Morning Glory.’ You can spot the resemblance in their beautiful trumpet-shaped flowers and vigorous spreading growth. Sweet potatoes come in a variety of colors, from orange to purple, and their flesh is just as vibrant as their skins, making them stunning on the plate! Even better, they’re low in fat, with only 90kcal per 100g, and packed with carotenoids, vitamin C, vitamin A, potassium, and fibre. The young leaves and tips can even be cooked as a spinach alternative. Sweet potatoes truly are the healthy-eating stars of the root vegetable world!

Sweet potato slips

Unlike regular potatoes, sweet potatoes are grown from “slips,” which are the long shoots removed from sprouted sweet potato tubers. These slips don’t usually have roots, though small roots might start forming and will grow once planted.

When slips arrive, they may look wilted, but soaking them in water overnight will help them recover quickly. The next day, plant each slip in a small pot filled with multi-purpose or peat-free compost. Make sure to bury the entire stem up to the base of the leaves. Sweet potato plants are not frost-hardy, so they need to be kept in warm, frost-free conditions for at least three weeks until they are established. Warm and humid environments encourage root growth. Once healthy, growing well and the frost risk has passed, gradually acclimate the plants to outdoor conditions before transplanting.

Sweet potatoes thrive in temperatures between 21-26°C (70-78°F) and need plenty of space due to their vigorous growth. In cooler climates, grow them in a polytunnel, greenhouse, or under cloches. They can also be planted in large pots (one slip per 20-liter pot). In milder areas, they can be grown outdoors using black polythene to warm the soil and suppress weeds. Adding fleece can significantly boost the temperature. They prefer full sun and well-drained, fertile soil with an acidic to neutral ph. Plant slips 30 cm (12 inches) apart, leaving 75 cm (30 inches) between rows. For limited space, they can also be grown in containers or patio bags.

Harvesting sweet potatoes

Around late summer, about 12 to 16 weeks after planting, you’ll notice the foliage and stems turning yellow and dying back. This is the perfect time to start harvesting your sweet potatoes, though you can leave them in the ground longer if you want larger tubers. Just be sure to dig them up before the first frost to prevent damage from the cold. Use a fork to lift them carefully, avoiding any bruises.

Storing sweet potatoes

Sweet potatoes can be eaten right after harvesting, but they’ll last for several months if their skins are cured properly. After harvesting, lay them in the sun for a few hours, then move them to a warm, humid spot for about 10 days—greenhouses work great for this. Once cured, store them in a cool, dry place to keep them in good condition.

Hints for container grown vegetables

Growing vegetables in containers is a great option when space is limited. Choosing the right container is key—thick plastic bags, terracotta pots, or anything stable can work, but pick something visually appealing since you’ll be looking at it. Avoid using tyres unless you’re okay with their appearance.

Drainage is crucial, so make sure your container has holes at the bottom to prevent waterlogging. Containers should be at least 10cm (4”) deep, but deeper is better to allow roots to grow larger and absorb more nutrients.

Soil tends to be warmer in pots and troughs than ground soil, which is ideal for heat-loving plants like peppers, aubergines, tomatoes, and melons. However, it also means water evaporates quickly in hot weather, so you might need to water twice daily in mid-summer. Good drainage is essential here. Sunlight is another factor—fruiting plants like peppers and tomatoes need direct sunlight daily, while leafy vegetables like spinach and kale do fine in shade. Containers give you the flexibility to move plants around for optimal light.

Use quality compost, like loam-based John Innes No2, for stability and nutrients. If using peat-free compost, increase feeding to two or three times per week to support healthy growth. A mix of the two types of compost will provide a good base for most types of vegetables.